NEITHAN HERBERT RUIZ PILLAJO
ÑUKA SHUNKU / womenswer fw21.The inspiration of this Fall Winter 2021 ready-to-wear collection came from the curiosity to search inside of the indigenous roots of the Creative Director, who was born in Ecuador and raised in Mexico. It is a tribute to his mother and a celebration to the diversity inside of Latin America. He focused a lot on the study of the traditional silhouettes to then think about the craft techniques, this took us into a trip to the past with a modern twist. With references to the common pleating and gathering of fabrics in Latin America. The “Anaco”(Ecuador), “Huipil”(Mexico) and “Tehuana”(Mexico) were some of the costumes that inspired the silhouettes of every garment (voluminous and rectangular shapes). Adding details made by hand with embroideries and knit pieces.
The selection of fabrics was based on the real fabrics that are used in some of the costumes such as wool, lace and chiffon. For him is really important the promotion of local industries so he collaborated with Desserto (Zacatecas, México) a highly sustainable plant based artificial material made from cactus, with the aim to offer cruelty free, sustainable alternative, without any toxic chemicals, phthalates and PVC.
The spiritual animals and the nomadism played a big role into the collection, he found the perfect link between two important meanings inside the pre-hispanic cultures, the “tona” (the tradition believed by various Middle American Indians to be capable of transforming themselves into animal forms.) and “na-hual” (a personal guardian spirit or protective alter ego assumed by various Middle American Indians to live in an animal or less frequently in some other embodiment.), connecting this two meaning inside of the chicken and butterfly, these not only present on the hand embroideries but also inside of the jewelry and accessories of the collection. All the collection is styled with handmade jewelry in gold made with brass and cultivated freshwater pearls, characteristic materials from his hometown San Miguel de Allende, Gto. Every piece was designed and made by him with the help of a local artisan Gustavo commonly known as “El Chino”.