MILANO MODA UOMO - PRESENTATIONS
25 were the presentations foreseen by the calendar Milano Moda Uomo Spring/Summer 2013, events not to be missed, especially for those who want the opportunity to appreciate the collections up close, touch them without the time limit, which is a prerogative of the fashion shows. It is mostly the brands specialized in accessories or in style with a sartorial touch, who choose the presentations in the showrooms or in special locations, and so allowing the cure for details and quality to emerge.
Among the locations, surely one of the most beautiful was the last floor of ‘Pirellone’ - the skyscraper of the Lombardy Region - which at sunset hosted the Fendi’s presentation, while the city beyond the windows served as backdrop to the dummies: micro prints, clothing made from finely worked fabrics, light denim overalls, thin pieces of leather stitched t-shirts and couture Bermuda shorts in couture, shoes with transparent soles. At the same time Brioni at the Palazzo della Triennale, staged his stylish Sunday man who does not give up style in his leisure time, but dampens formalisms by wearing colored (red, yellow, blue, azure) suits, without a tie.
The man of Belstaff, instead, uses the leisure time for traveling, with safari jackets, natural tones raffia pullovers and precious python bags; he is ready to discover the world. Double presentation for Peuterey Aiguille Noire: along with the collection dominated by sleek design and clean lines - the material aspect - thanks to a full and woven texture in which coats are the main pieces, there is also the capsule collection by Andrea Incontri; between attention to the fabrics (silk, terry, linen and cotton, all treated with sifted-creased effects) and the sartorial craftmanship which makes everything slim and light, here is the story of a man from dusk to dawn.
Lightness was taken care of also by Alessandro Baldi, the designer of Les Copains, who chose yarns as fine as that of terry woven and the technogical Teflon wire which provides a waterproof effect, for a collection that demonstrates the ability of the Made in Italy to innovate and experiment, even when at the service of collections with a classic touch, like the this one which relies entirely on knitwear. At Giuliano Fujiwara was the debut for the designer Sergio Daricello which had the difficult task to pursue a well-defined stylistic trend, rigorous, minimalist and careful for detail, a fusion of contrasts: the oversized parkas and the skinny pants, fitted jacket and soft Bermuda shorts, basic colors and t-shirt with abstract designs.
One of the names that returned in the calendar of Milano Moda Uomo this year is that of Pal Zilieri, who inaugurated the new showroom in Corso Matteotti, an open space of over 500sqm in which it was presented the spring/summer collection. Inspired by the frames of the film "The Postman" with the result of light and comfortable garments: natural materials such as silk, wool and linen, color burnt by the sun or that recall marine atmospheres.
Valextra celebrated its 75 years history in the best possible way, that is by looking to the future, so it put its attention to traditional materials and elegant design, often enhanced by the splendid colors of leather, at the service of a collection for today’s man who needs i-phone and i-pad covers or a versatile bag for the leisure time or work with pockets and compartments for storing all technological accessories, just like the new “Shuttle”.
Many appointments with the famous brands of shoes, fetish object for men as well as for women, as evidenced by the rich, original and often precious proposals of Milano Moda Uomo. Alberto Moretti with Arfango celebrates opulence: the floral motifs of the "Duke shoe" that refers to the time of Medicean Florence, the colored sequins of the "Rainbow shoe", the sparkling of the new "Mirror shoe" that seems to come from a video clip of disco music. Footwear for original men, but who are able to consider their vanity an amusement to bring forward with irony. Alberto Guardiani celebrates a historic date whose 50th anniversary falls next year: the shoe "1963" is dedicated to Martin Luther King, who in that year delivered the famous speech "I Have a Dream ..": black laced shoe, with low sole and squared tip, surely a rigorous and elegant model, just like the great American activist. Santoni presented a collection of very classic shoes, focusing on quality workmanship and materials: profiles in contrast or tassels or even semi-gloss for the moccasins, suede for the sneakers.