Young designers’ energy MILANO MODA DONNA September 27th 2011
Milano fashion week closes with the freshness and energy of the new generation of young designers to whom Camera Nazionale della Moda dedicates much attention and care.
First on the board walk is the pure and clear line collection of Chicca Lualdi BeeQueen. The geometries of the dresses have a contemporary and sophisticated approach. The geometrical pattern recalls the rationalist architectures of F. Lloyd Right and Citterio.
Mergers of matter, of transparencies and fills, where organza becomes the base for master tailor games through the application of hand sewn rectangular elements of leather. Fresh and fluid fabrics, but at the same time compact, like cady, silk and cotton. Colors: from whites to warm tones like hazelnut, with touches of coral and olive green.
The collection of conceptualism Erkan Coruh is inspired by the movie “Picnic at Hanging Rock”, the story of a group of girl students who disappeared, during a picnic, on S. Valentine’s day of 1900. The garments in a Mitteleuropean style with white, black, nude look or off green colors are mixed with asymmetrical dresses with the application of beads and stick spangles. Very nice the draped and transparent like burka. Egg lines for elements purposely ripped on the hem.
Cristiano Burani Spring Summer 2012 woman also moves on rigorous graphic lines. Casual mixes with more couture solutions. Tridimensional laceworks and transparency games. Technical and elasticized lines are combined with voluptuous chiffon for double face dresses. Great accessories: suede or shiny piton shopping bags, like sandals, and cadi hats with inserted laceworks. The main color is red, presented by itself. Pastel geometries with a flash of orange stylized with an intrusion of black and absolute white.
In the tent structure in Piazza Duomo next to the Rinascente the three shows of the young designers selected by the N-U-D-E project, organized by Camera della Moda Italiana. Mauro Gasperi presents a collection played on white, on black and on strong architectural structures. Cocoa, gold shining blue and real yellow complete the job. Denim triangles combine with chiffon fabrics; raffia and meshes give it an imprint of evanescence and fluidity.
Sergei Grinko, a promising Russian newcomer, calls his collection “Atlantis” as a tribute to the disappeared civilization that has inspired religions, writers and adventurers. Hand painted silk and idealistic representations of the abyss; a “queen of the seas” covered with long fluctuating capes that create a trapezoidal shape, tuned with an ideal circle that involves and pervades every creation. Typical 3D touch thanks to the drops of resin and crystals, applied to the dresses by matching chains.
Francesca Liberatore astonishes, instead, by presenting a woman light but aware and thoughtful. The results of her idea are evident in the prints that reproduce the seabed of the Red Sea, reviving in every field the colors, the brilliant shades and the shapes of the tropical fishes of Egypt. Silk pockets, nets lighted by Swarovski, applied on shantung and satin, paper effect, enhance the attention on the two-dimensional geometrical shapes, in an alternate combination of transparencies and matte effect.
Iacopo Crudeli