Versace’s pastel mermaid MILANO MODA DONNA SEPTEMBER 23rd 2011
The hundred years of Trussardi, Marras, Moschino, Etro, C’N’C of Costume, Les Copains and Blumarine for the third day of Milano Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2012.
We start with Moschino, that presents a very contemporary torero-woman. Boleros encrusted with gold metallic applications and big Spanish skirts, with ruffles, rushes and embroideries are the best items. Colors: black, white and yellow gold. The hairdos of the models, a braid around the neck, are completed with toreros hair or by ‘sculptures’ of feathers: black varnished breathtaking platform shoes with gold details.
It’s with Marras that the atmosphere becomes more vintage. On the notes of the “actress-singer” Charlotte Gainsburg, walks a romantic and at the same time monolithic woman. Overlapping layers, draperies and decompositions of chiffon. Flower prints go from grand-mother’s micro flowers, to abstract flowers, almost watercolors , with embroideries and applications. Unusual but declines the Marras way: animal designs. Hints of fluorescent pink in resins knitwear skirts and purple in pleated ruffled skirts.
“Vestivamo alla marinara” (“We used to dress sailor suits”) by Les Copains, in the halls of palazzo Clerici. The classic navy garments are revisited with a feminine and chic twist. The striped and the single colors are mostly blue or white with hints of yellow. The jewels buttons are golden and round and adorn the lapels of coats and the martingale. Woman’s Bermuda, Capri trousers, basic shaped knitwear, enriched with grain of rice and fishnet workings or even encrusted with the soap bubble effects transparent spangles. Splendid the final nude color tricot dresses.
“The new Jazz Jungle” is the title of Etro’s show, during which the fantastic music of Ella Fitzgerald, Armstrong and Buscaglione was played. Futurisms and Constructivism were the starting points from which Veronica Etro was able to represent dynamism and plasticity. The paisley drawing becomes graphic and meets the decoupage prints of Fortunato Depero. Soft lines and over layers of crossings and V necklines. Almost totally absent the transparencies, thanks to satins, linens and crepe de Chines.
Technical and androgynous is Ennio Capasa’s woman for C’N’C Costume National. Nude and black, black and yellow, emerald and black, nude and pink confetti. A definite show of colors, structured and fluid fabrics. The viscose cadi meets the leather and the shantung. The pants are away from the body and the bikers of sportswear inspiration have removable caps and contrast zip. Shoes: stringed and masculine for the day, wedges with suede grafts for the evening.
South American atmosphere and music at Blumarine. The first 5 dresses all surprised for the “Chiquita” prints with very innovative embroideries and applications. Flat sandals woven with colored raffia and with maxis spangles made of shiny and mat plastics. In the second half total black and white, with a Bianca Balti that stroke the parterre in a capped dress worked with spangles-jewels. Celestial.
Prints with woven ribbon, shades of color and linear forms by the young Marco De Vincenzo. The skirts are up to knee with a deep cut in the front or short and slightly flared; the necklines of the tube dresses are deep but they still maintain a not impudent femininity.
Versace proposes the opulence of the historical Gianni Versace prints, cleaned and made very updated thanks to the choice of colors: base of whites with milk-mint green and wisterias on a seabed theme, with pictures of starfish and tropical algae. A tempest of gold mini studs create a print on united whites. All on pleated chiffon, so dense as to seem wrinkled; short boleros, bikers, midi, ruffle skirts, pleated ruffle inserts with geometric cuts on sheath and soirée dresses from which wedge-shaped sandals in transparent Perspex show.
An exceptional location for the Trussardi brand, that for the hundred anniversary of the maison present her collection in a tent-structure created in the garden of Castello Sforzesco, with a dinner party at the end of the night. The designer chosen by the family, the up and coming Umit Benan, proposes a theme of a voyage that recreates the seats of an airplane at the end of the walkway, where models take plastic poses. The concept of the collection is that of menswear. Blazers, wide leg trousers with double pleats, shirts, double-breasted, safari jackets and pea coats in colonial colors like ecru, kaki, mustard, brick and cobalt. Sandals with medium high heels and trapezoidal hand bags in leather and reptile.
Iacopo Crudeli