On the catwalk of the N.U.D.E project show the designers of the future
It’s the young people of NUDE - New Upcoming DEsigners – who close the Milan Fashion Week, SS 2012. A closure that is actually a projection toward the future of Italian fashion, a see you to next season.
It was an important signal to enter the young people in the calendar and give them the task of closing Milan Fashion Week: a signal that should be grasped in particular by the many young people who are interested in fashion through writing and photography, whose first task should be to bring forward and introduce their peers to the big public.
On the catwalk show the collections of Mauro Gasperi, selected from the Fashion Incubator, Sergei Grinko, Russian up and coming designers, and Francesca Liberatore, the winner of the Next Generation.
MAURO GASPERI brings on the catwalk few but decisive colors: black, white, cocoa, blue with golden veins and yellow, in the wake of the trends for next season. The difference are the "spaces" that Gasperi builds and occupies with the fabrics that overlap each other. But the spaces are also let free: in some details, in some parts of each garment , it is a game of adding and subtracting. And even when you open a seemingly empty triangle, filling it is the personality and the skin of the woman who wears the garment. The cuts are strategic, lines overlay horizontally and diagonally, stripes and fringes which are the symbol of the freedom to mix styles, which after all is the major leitmotif of the collection. Freedom of who wears them, but also of those who create it by combining geometric and almost architectural features to the delicacy of the female shapes.
SERGEI Grinko is inspired by the legendary lost civilization of Atlantis, with women, half sirens, that charm with bold color combinations and dangerous underwater monsters that look like jeweled-lobsters, a true symbol of the collection, declined in the form of accessory or decor of the garment. The jewels included in the dresses are made of resin, raffia and crystals: lightweight in materials, but with an imposing look. Spectacular dresses , but always within the pret-à-porter. The queens of the sea of Sergei Grinko have high tails and green water colored hair strands, to recall the shades of the dresses, but there is also ample room for turquoise, green, pink and gray. The real peculiarity of the collection, however, are not the clutches covered with teeth or "monsters" that cover the back of the models, but the ability to render three-dimensional the fabrics through the application of crystals that deceive the eye of the beholder, that feels projected in the middle of a show worthy of an international pop star, and at the same time, in the magnificent Atlantis.
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE. The themes of the sea return in this part of the show, but obviously differently declined. It is the beauty of nature, the texture of the fishes but also of the sea, from a human point of view. And so they meet and clash, as in life, creatures of the sea and fishermen's nets, repeated, not as dresses but as decorations on jerseys and pants. Nets that in this case are not fatal, but decorative and shimmer and absorb the glow of the sea under the sun.
The designer uses Swarovski Elements to give light to her dresses, but it’s the imagination who does the rest. And here comes a big fish on the catwalk, which is actually a bag entirely handmade, the glasses which remind us of the deep sea creature looks, the striped prints, the coral pink and mint green shades, the sugar paper which characterizes the skirts. Francesca Liberatore is inspired by the fishermen, thinking about women and their elegance, their desire for creativity and freedom, their greatness. Greatness that has always belonged, in the popular imagination, to the sea.
