Armani’s pearls and Cavalli’s gold MILANO MODA DONNA September 26th 2011
The sixth day of Milano Moda Donna was marked by the big names of Made in Italy luxury: Dsquared, Armani, Cavalli and Ferrè.
Matinée at Dsquared. The Caten twins were able to recreate, at 9 am, the atmospheres and the sounds of a rock concert. The scenography of the rotating set shows two faces of a musical event: the sensations felt by the spectators and those felt by the performers. Cross combinations in the collection: from hippy maxi dresses to cowboy hats, from stars and stripes prints to American Indians styled fringes. A mix and a match that reflects the subculture “clubbing” of the public to whom the brand is aimed at.
Sweet, strong and sensual like a pearl is Giorgio Armani’s woman for spring summer 2012. A bon ton lady, elegant, ready for the parties just as suggested by the many night dresses that were shown on the board walk.
Pearly nuances, tones of blue and grey. Shimmering satins, laminates and chiffon, covertly transparent, united, overlapped with great sophistication. A triumph of simple and linear silhouettes, with overlapping lengths and widths.
Rich of works is Roberto Cavalli’s collection. Black and gold is the indispensable base on which flowers work, seventh century motives and the animal prints develop. A recall ’20 for the lines. Smoking tuxedo essentially cut in black and white, combined with maxi dresses impalpable and veiled or with short dresses, with leather sticks applied on chiffon. Leather and reptile, with inlays of tulle embroidered with sequins, for the working of clothing.
Return to the origins and to the architectural structures by Gianfranco Ferrè. The collection is designed for the first time by Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi. On the notes of “Often Bird” by Wim Martens, the fashion show opens with contemporary tunics presented in absolute white. The cadi double cuts are combined with soft leather, creating flat volumes and new patterns. The slits are deep and sensually uncover the skin of the body. The night is illuminated by lacework of raffia. Enameled feathers and crystals, sewn on tulle base embrace the body and at the same time reveal curvy transparencies. Roaring of applauses half way through the show.
In the halls of Palazzo Clerici, the record player repeats over and over “Cameo lover”, to underline the ’60 atmosphere of Normaluisa. Shirt dresses under the knee, over long pleated chiffon under-gowns, that lengthen the silhouette. Tribal allusions and severe volumes. Lilac bouquets for the wall-paper prints, inspired to the Danish artist Nina Saunders. Double micro-belts strengthen the waist. A woman immersed in an endless vacation that starts in Positano, where she dresses with sorbet colors and arrives in Africa where she wears hemp dresses with touches of fluo colors.
Iacopo Crudeli