Dolce & Gabbana: Italian beauty. MILANO MODA DONNA SEPTEMBER 25th 2011
Marni, Massimo Rebecchi, Missoni, Byblos, Ferragamo and Aquilano Rimondi shows.
Sunday morning the fifth day of the Milan fashion week awakes the “philosophers of fashion”, only the very attentive that went to see Marni pragmatic woman. Consuelo Castiglioni, founder and creator, claims that she only designs things she likes to wear and that for this reason her type of woman keeps faith to herself and it is not a surprise her surrealistic but extremely aware vision that the collection communicates. Three quarters or half leg dresses, veiled under-gowns and adherent to the body become visible since they are longer than the dress are often flared or even broad. The constructions are solid and full of body, and the matching of the colors is flat and definite. Big and little daisies, geometrical and optical prints. Sharp and of high intellectual profile.
A magnificent show town feast lights at the Metropol of Dolce and Gabbana. Hordes of aspiring participants and crowds of curious, cascades of flashes for a contemporary ‘dolce vita’. Photographers gone crazy when a creature of the past appeared: Scarlett Johansson, a real star. The usual notes of the Cavalleria Rusticana introduced a “Mambo Italiano” that brings us back to insolence of Sophia Loren in the movie “Pane amore e......”. In this picture of total Italian neo-realism here is the collection with prints of tomatoes, hot peppers, eggplants and zucchinis. Earrings of pasta and jewels. Mix and matches of organza, macramé, crochet, lace, prints on classic tube dresses, shorts and jackets, curled dresses cut to the waist; colors: a triumph of the Dolce & Gabbana heritage, a finale filled with multicolor stones and gold touches on corsets, unique pieces, that shine like fireworks in a small southern Italian town.
Longing for Spain by Missoni. Real life “tanguera” dressed in knit works, the classic fantasies of the maison are also used on gowns and tops with ruffled flounces. New tribal patterns. Pressing, the jungle-house music that gave rhythm to the show. A mention goes to the sandals with an imitation of glass cylindrical heels and to the cat shape eyeglasses.
A woman with a capital W is that of Ferragamo. Dresses adherent at the body, knee high, drapery and ripples of fabrics. Strong and various are the maxi flower prints, presented in the vivid colors of nature. Courageous and successful the combination of cyclamen and scarlet red.
A gym set for the almost teenager cheerleaders of Versus, designed by Christopher Kane, with fringed skirts just like in the best American TV movies, but dampened by soft pastel colors, with solid black finishes. The jersey of the basketball uniforms becomes a dress silhouette. The sports inspirations sublimated in the edgy glamour bring us back to the glories that once were and bring us to imagine a brilliant future for Mr. Kane in the time of Versus “medusa”.
Quasi-spatial is Byblos woman. Technical materials, kept together by geometrical patchwork patterns. The dresses visibly light that resemble armors. Touches of transparencies on the single veil poncho. The shades met are hazelnut, goose beak and black. The showpieces are star shaped shopping bags.
Damask and prints in the pale tones of pearl gray, wisely mixed with mint green, apricot, sand and lilac by Aquilano Raimondi. Dresses of couture inspiration, adhere to the back part of the body while they balloon in the front, evident sign, on the side of the two stylists, of a never ending search in design.
From Roberto Musso, shimmering materials and soft shapes give the collection a fluid twist. The color white is combined with reds, with blue and sand both with fusion of abstract prints and with clean matches. The lengths are knee high or midi and transparencies completely absent.
In the halls of Palazzo Clerici, Massimo Robecchi, at the usual women fashion shows, adds a flash of a man collection. The pastel and grey colors are prevalent. Basic clothes refer to actual trends: linearity, medium lengths, geometrical patterns, prints and stripes.
Iacopo Crudeli