Prada: the fifties with irony – MILANO MODA DONNA SEPTEMBER 22nd 2011
The last of D&G, Fendi, Scervino, the return of Genny, Jo No Fui, and grand final in Via Fogazzaro.
The second day of MILANO MODA DONNA opened with the sober but determined woman by Max Mara. The historical maison of the Moramotti family celebrates 50 years and presents on the walkway a palette of colors almost neutral, with nuances of whites, sand, colonial, with touches of soft sea water and black. The lines are rigorous, almost graphic, the feminine silhouette is cleaned to the most. Trousers, midiskirts , shirts and jackets follow the natural shape of the body: “for a woman that likes to be looked at but not pointed to”.
The most influent fashion editors of the world moved then to maison Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Valentini Fendi showed at the rhythm of “drum and base” music mixed with Ornella Vanoni’s “Sono Triste” (“I’m sad”), women arrived from the future, but conscious of what they have been in the past and most of all in the present: cotton hairdos in an elliptical helmet of hair with maxi transparent eye-glasses, as if they just came out of a comic book or a trip in a spider car. The collection, instead, recalls the taste of the Sixties, with shirts, skirts and mini-dresses made of poplin in the colors of Oxford blue and white with medium stripes gray pumice. All made particular by cuts and weaving that have made the final effect almost geometrical. Not missing were furs color peacock, orange and purple. Also present were biscuit color buckskin, perforated in petit-pois and finally, for evening, total black, gloss and transparencies for the haute-couture dresses, worked with embroidery and weaving of fabrics, very similar to a bas relief sculpture. Masterpieces.
Also very beautiful is Ermanno Scervino’s woman, on the notes of Amy Winehouse and Rapahel Gualazzi, shows on the walkway with a look that recalls the shapes of the ‘40s. High waist mid-length skirts, adherent to the body but flared or draped in the lower part, mesh knitted sweaters, heavily worked and feminine dusters, but built in very technical shapes and details. The workings are really rich and complex: paisley pattern embroideries in lace on transparent tulle, perforations that look like lace. Shoes and bags color leather and transparent plastic. Cream, azure blue, declinations of green and terra di Siena are the chosen colors.
Total look for the D&G collection. Every piece, from dresses to skirts, from shoes to 5 pockets, shirts and tops, all was made of foulard silk: the prints, very much colored, are matched and united in the most unorthodox way, but with an extremely convincing result. Gold and eighteen century red stirrups, optical, flowered, landscapes and iconographies, combined by the inspiration of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Today was the last show of the brand D&G, it will be taken over by the brand Dolce & Gabbana. The two stylists seem very happy of this moment that they defined as a new beginning.
Great revival with the return of the brand Genny, symbol of the chic woman of the ‘90s, created by Donatella Girombelli and revived today under the direction of young Gabriele Colangelo.
The shapes of the dresses pay homage to the historical archive of the maison: pant-palace suits, capes, knee high skirts, and dresses characterized by their softness and cleanness; the colors are ochre, electric blue and mustard. Very white and geometric prints. Shoes and hand bags in leather with rigid details in metallic gold. Amusing belts with metal zipper and slider, lurex worked with honeycomb, and use of pony leather in the summer. The event was repeated many times, to allow the guests to enjoy the exceptional location, spectacular, but limited in space, the Arengario of Via Marconi with a breathtaking view over Piazza Duomo.
Bright and lively Jo No Fui, that played with graphic jungle prints on light fabrics, ethereal kaftans, mini-dresses with tropical fantasies stormed with imitations studs drops of gold, all well stylized in a sophisticated ‘70s mood.
Final with a bang in the spaces of Via Fogazzaro for Prada. The whole fashion of the world got together to praise Ms. Miuccia, who presented, in the usual complete surprise, a collection inspired to the ‘50s, in an “American Graffiti” style. Lots of plisse for the chiffon Marilyn style skirt, but also in printed leather with images of old American cars, pea coats in technical fabric, embroidered crochet in the front, applications of small roses, banded tops and leather midiskirts with rippled elastic on the waist, almost culottes chastened customs. Comic book prints, pastel colors, combined with applications that recall the friezes on the flaming body of the American Mustang. Hints of red, burgundy and brick. The sandals with stiletto heels and flame shaped applications on the back leave us speechless.
Sizes, volumes and iridescent silk shantung by Albino. The colors are ocher, mustard and shades of grey and beige. Touches of blue and peach.
The day ended with the show of Anteprima that, in the tent-structure of Piazza Duomo, set up by camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, proposes a dynamic and fresh woman, the geometry of the play of colors, the technical materials, also worthwhile is the romantic side given by the total white floral embroidery and transparencies just mentioned.
Iacopo Crudeli
