That's the press, baby • Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana

That's the press, baby

That's the press, baby

"A good reporter does not have friends," said Joseph Pulitzer, yes, him, that of the most coveted journalism awards. And the rule should always prevail, especially in the world of fashion, where flattery and gifts abound. But today more than ever, in the era of Web 2.0, it seems difficult to respect it. It would be useful to frame the words of Colin McDowell, one of the most famous and influential fashion writer in the world: "It's always good to know what we're talking about. But in this business experience is invaluable. I am bored by  young reporters who know little or nothing and stand up as judges. The contemporary fashion journalism has reached historic lows." (From the book "At the court of King Fashion" by Daniela Fedi and Lucia Serlenga).

Sharp and merciless judgment, that does not give discounts, but not so true: try to go into a backstage of any fashion week, not to see the back of a mad circus, but to study the journalists, those with a capital J, people like Fedi, Mulassano, Piaggi and Aspesi. It’s like a lesson at the academy.  Some of them, you will see around the designer, with a notebook in hand taking notes and drawing sketches, asking sharp, relevant questions, which will became curious and well written articles on the most famous magazines of the Beautiful country. Even if the category is often envied and unloved – in particular by the designers -  you cannot deny their influence and importance, second only to buyers, because they best translate the trends of the catwalks.

 

 

An up and coming journalist and on the antipodes for the use of digital media, never without iPad and two iPhones, Simone Marchetti, fashion editor of "d.repubblica.it”, notable for its chronicles and his flawless and original looks. After all he was one of the most photographed in the Milan Fashion Week. He wins for speed, but without forgetting the good writing. Also his words should be framed, in addition to his outfit, which express true passion for fashion and the will to tell it, at his best, thanks to his work as a journalist. In a recent interview Flippo Fiora said: "The phenomenon of bloggers has been the battering ram for a system about  to collapse, but now it needs new ideas, new shapes. Lately, I only see twenty-year-olds who feel mighty and write what comes to mind when they see a show or a dress. Do not waste your time: there what is needed is quality, ideas and talent. (...) My advice is: dive  in the contemporary, find your language, address the present. And then splurge on something new, radical, subversive. Only then you will break through boredom." And, I might add,  learn to write well.